Edinburgh 2015

Auld Reekie

Two holidays in six months might be a record for me. My best friend and I don't get to see each other very often as we live about 4 hours apart by train, and both work retail's bizarre and soul destroying hours (no weekends off, no Fridays off, no convenient work pattern ever). We had decided to get together and head up to Edinburgh for a long weekend, for some TLC and to get the feel of the place for when she moves later this year.

A kilt in its natural habitat

We stayed really central, just off St. Andrews Square, right near the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, and walked pretty much everywhere for the whole trip. Our first night (after a quick Primarni & Boots stop) we headed up the Playfair steps to Crafter's Bar in Lady Stair's Close. It's a lovely quirky hipster hangout, serving artisanal beers and spirits and the best veggie pizzas ever.

We shared the Garden pizza and both had this amazing Lindeman's Raspberry Beer, which is essentially raspberry lemonade for all the alcohol content, but is utterly amazing. The staff were polite but not overly attentive, it's sometimes nice not to be hung all over during your meal. I only wish we'd had room for dessert because it looked amazing!

Fucking drink this beer, trust me.

Afterwards we headed up the Royal Mile to join our guide for a special, spooky tour of Edinburgh's Most Haunted.... Including tales of blood executions, plague ghouls and a visit to the Blair Street Vaults, where we met this charming fellow...

Lazy bones

... And I experienced a weird and persistent bout of spectral flea bites! Joking aside, this was a fabulously ghastly tour, the guide was a master of the theatrical and an absolute scream. Thoroughly recommended, Mercat Tours.

18th century Sedan chair

Always cut through Princes Street Gardens

Both of us are kind of history buffs - we actually became friends in history lessons in college, so we couldn't leave without doing a little history tourism at the Castle, to see the Crown Jewels. The displays here are truly fantastic, but sadly photography free so I can't show them off, which just means I have to go back to see them again.

We saw Mons Meg, which was given to James II as a wedding gift, setting a rather high standard for gifts. Personally a small infantry unit or some smart cavaliers would suffice... I had always thought this was gun that shot the 1 o'clock shot but that is a smaller gun nearby. Probably a good thing, as the last time Ms Meg was truly fired, the shot was apparently found over two miles away. We did join the crowd for the 1 o'clock shot, which is awe inspiring as it is.

Mons Meg, The Grand Old Lady as the plaque delightfully refers to her.

As well as jewels, ghosts and large kegs of whiskey the Castle houses a fantastic armoury, where I became rather taken with this sword, amongst the HBO production worthy collection of halberds, pikes, crossbows and assorted short swords.

I've got raider potential.

This guy hangs outside the castle with a variety of weaponry raising money for a children's leukemia trust. He's incredibly knowledgeable and an absolute riot, and more than happy to let you play with his swords...

We went on to visit the Real Mary King's Close off the Royal Mile, another fantastic guided tour of a street almost emptied by the bubonic plague. This one had more of a Tussaud's kind of theme, relying on mixed media (films, photos and a guide) to tell a story, but was definitely fascinating. After a little meander down to Greyfriar's to visit Bobby (but steering clear of the poltergeist) we finished the day with dinner and drinks at Frankenstein 1818, the most amazing theme bar I've ever been to. They do silent screenings of cult horror movies (we caught the end of Bride of Frankenstein) which you can listen into with headsets, some amazing themed drinks (try the Rotten Apple!) and popcorn. Hang around until 9pm though, when lightning strikes the building, the ceilings shake... and someone... or something... wakes up

Pretty much every bar we went to served gourmet popcorn though, so apparently this is a thing.

The note reads, For Queen Mary Stuart, from Hans and Judith, tucked on a little shelf in the abandoned Holyrood Abbey.

After a quick tour of Holyrood Palace we decided to pit ourselves against the elements, against our own fragile bodies and attempt to climb the Salisbury Crags. Spoiler alert: we made it, despite wholly inappropriate attire.

View from Salisbury Crags, exultant look all mine

Tollbooth Tavern, a writerly abode if I ever saw one.

One folly completed, we followed it up with a bold stroll up Calton Hill to visit the Shame of Scotland, and also to hunch breathless and unfit at the top.

View from Calton Hill

Also well worth a visit is The Writer's Museum, with displays dedicated to Burns, Robert Louis Stevenson and Walter Scott. This was a truly charming little place, tucked into a courtyard paved with the words of the writers of Scotland. The displays are surprisingly in depth and engaging for such a small museum and the grand 400 year old building is the perfect setting for it.

We had to try dinner at The Hanging Bat (seriously how Goth is Edinburgh?), home of 52 different kinds of gin (Devil's Door was nice) and one exceptionally sweet bourbon (The Bookmaker) and some seriously good pulled pork and mac n' cheese. Next time perhaps The Witchery...

We managed to squeeze in a visit to the National Museum before we went home, which could teach the British Museum a few things about fun and engaging displays to be honest. Maybe I haven't been round the BM recently, but I swear the last time I did it was wall unit after wall unit of single display items with little inter-textual narrative. Also, I like typewriters floating in space.

I dunno, I just love the idea of exhibits hanging like this, It was really effective with sea sponges...

I can't resist the opportunity for ye olde dress up, because in my head I am five.

We gotta dress up

Let it never be said that Scotland gets no sunshine

Of course I couldn't come away without some books... I'm a little in love with Mr Oliver and his charming accent, but sadly both of these will have to wait until I've made some headway with my course books for my Screenplay module next week...